Student guide · 15 min read

Laser & Dermatology 101

A friendly, jargon-free introduction to how skin works, what a laser actually is, and how doctors use light to treat skin. No science degree needed.

Simple explanations Diagrams & examples Glossary & quiz
01

What is dermatology?

Dermatology is the branch of medicine that studies and treats the skin, hair and nails. The word comes from Greek: derma (skin) + logia (study). A doctor who specialises in it is a dermatologist.

Dermatologists treat everything from acne, eczema and psoriasis to hair loss, infections and skin cancer — and they also perform procedures like laser treatments, peels and minor surgery.

LargestSkin is the body’s largest organ
~2 m²Surface area of adult skin
~4 weeksTime for the outer layer to renew itself
3,000+Known skin, hair & nail conditions

Think of it like this: your skin is a smart raincoat. It keeps water in, germs out, controls temperature, senses touch — and even makes vitamin D from sunlight.

02

Meet your skin: three layers

To understand lasers, you first need to know what they are aiming at. Skin is built like a three-layer cake:

EpidermisTop layer · thinner than paper (~0.1 mm)

The protective shield. Contains melanocytes that make melanin — the pigment that gives skin its colour and causes tans, freckles and dark spots.

DermisMiddle layer · 1–4 mm thick

The “engine room”. Full of collagen (for firmness), elastin (for stretch), blood vessels, nerves, sweat glands and hair roots. Most laser targets live here.

HypodermisBottom layer · fat tissue

A cushion of fat that stores energy, keeps you warm and connects skin to muscle.

03

What exactly is a laser?

“LASER” is actually an acronym:

LLight
AAmplification by
SStimulated
EEmission of
RRadiation

In simple words: a laser is a device that makes a very pure, focused and powerful beam of light. Inside, atoms are “excited” with energy, and when they calm down they release light. Mirrors bounce this light back and forth, multiplying it, until a strong beam escapes.

Torch light vs laser light

Ordinary light (torch, bulb)

  • Many colours mixed
  • Waves out of step
  • Spreads out in all directions

Laser light

  • Monochromatic — one single colour (wavelength)
  • Coherent — waves march in step
  • Collimated — travels in a tight, straight beam

These three properties let doctors aim light energy at one exact target in the skin — something ordinary light can’t do.

Wavelength = the laser’s “colour”

Every laser produces one wavelength, measured in nanometres (nm). Some are visible (green, red), but many medical lasers use invisible infrared or ultraviolet light. The wavelength decides what the laser hits and how deep it goes.

Excimer308 nm KTP532 nm Ruby694 nm Diode810 nm Nd:YAG1,064 nm Er:YAG2,940 nm CO₂10,600 nm
UltravioletVisibleInfrared →
04

A short history

  1. 1917

    The idea

    Albert Einstein describes “stimulated emission” — the physics that makes lasers possible.

  2. 1960

    First laser

    Theodore Maiman builds the first working laser using a ruby crystal (694 nm red light).

  3. 1963

    Lasers meet skin

    Dermatologist Dr. Leon Goldman begins studying lasers on skin — he is often called the “father of laser medicine”.

  4. 1983

    The big breakthrough

    Anderson & Parrish publish selective photothermolysis: how to heat only a chosen target without harming nearby skin.

  5. 2004

    Fractional lasers

    Fractional photothermolysis treats tiny columns of skin at a time, so healing becomes much faster.

  6. 2010s

    Picosecond era

    Ultra-short picosecond pulses arrive for tattoos and pigment — shattering particles with less heat.

05

How lasers treat skin

Here’s the big idea, called selective photothermolysis. Break the word apart: selective (choosing) + photo (light) + thermo (heat) + lysis (destroy). So: using light to heat and destroy only a chosen target.

Everyday example: on a sunny day, a black T-shirt gets much hotter than a white one. Dark colours absorb light and turn it into heat. Lasers use the same trick — dark hair roots or pigment absorb the light and heat up, while the lighter skin around them stays cooler.

Step 1 — Find the target (chromophore)

The thing in the skin that absorbs the laser light is called a chromophore (“colour-carrier”). There are four main ones. Tap each to learn more:

Found in
Hair roots, freckles, dark spots
Absorbs
532 – 1064 nm
Why it works
Brown/black pigment absorbs a wide range of visible and near-infrared light.

Step 2 — The three “golden rules”

1

Right wavelength

Pick a colour of light the target absorbs strongly — and that reaches the right depth.

2

Right pulse duration

Flash the light shorter than the time the target takes to cool down (its thermal relaxation time), so heat stays trapped in the target.

3

Right energy

Deliver just enough energy (fluence, in J/cm²) to affect the target — but not the skin around it.

Step 3 — What the light does

Heat (photothermal)

Target is heated and damaged — e.g. hair roots, blood vessels.

Shock wave (photoacoustic)

Ultra-short pulses shatter particles — e.g. tattoo ink, pigment.

Vaporise (ablative)

Water in cells boils away thin layers — e.g. CO₂ resurfacing.

Chemical (photochemical)

Light triggers a reaction in cells — e.g. excimer for vitiligo.

Finally, the body’s own healing does the rest: it clears away the damaged bits and builds fresh collagen. That’s why results often keep improving for weeks after a session.

06

Types of lasers

Lasers are often grouped by how much they affect the skin’s surface:

Ablative

Removes the top layer. Strong results, 1–2 weeks healing. e.g. CO₂, Er:YAG

Non-ablative

Heats below the surface, skin stays intact. Little or no downtime. e.g. Nd:YAG, diode

Fractional

Treats tiny columns, leaves healthy skin between them. Faster healing. e.g. fractional CO₂

Common skin lasers at a glance

LaserWavelength (nm)Main targetTypical uses
Ruby694MelaninPigment, older tattoo removal
Alexandrite755MelaninHair removal (fair skin), pigment
Diode800–810MelaninHair removal
Nd:YAG1064Melanin, bloodHair removal on darker skin, veins, tattoos
KTP / Pulsed dye532 / 585–595HaemoglobinRedness, rosacea, birthmarks
Er:YAG2940WaterLight resurfacing, fine lines
CO₂10,600WaterDeep resurfacing, scars, wrinkles
Excimer308Immune cells (UVB)Vitiligo, psoriasis

IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) is often used alongside lasers, but it is not a laser — it uses a broad band of many wavelengths with a filter.

07

Where lasers are used in dermatology

Hair reduction

Heats the hair root so it stops growing thick hair.

Pigmentation

Breaks up extra melanin in sun spots, freckles and melasma.

Resurfacing

Removes damaged top layers and triggers fresh collagen.

Acne scars

Remodels pitted scars by rebuilding collagen underneath.

Blood vessels

Closes tiny visible vessels, calming redness and rosacea.

Tattoo removal

Shatters ink into tiny bits the body can clear away.

Vitiligo & psoriasis

Targeted UV light (excimer) calms or re-pigments patches.

Skin rejuvenation

Gentle heat boosts collagen for firmer, brighter skin.

Want to go deeper? Each application has its own topic page with the science, treatment steps and risks.

08

Safety & skin types

Medical lasers are powerful (most are Class 4 — the highest safety class), so they must be used by trained professionals.

The Fitzpatrick skin types

Because melanin absorbs laser light, darker skin can absorb energy meant for the target. Doctors use the Fitzpatrick scale to choose safer settings:

Type IAlways burns, never tans
Type IIBurns easily, tans slightly
Type IIISometimes burns, tans gradually
Type IVRarely burns, tans easily
Type VVery rarely burns
Type VINever burns, deeply pigmented

Good practice

  • Special eye goggles for everyone in the room
  • A patch test before full treatment
  • Skin cooling during treatment
  • Sun protection before and after

Possible side effects

  • Temporary redness and swelling
  • Darker or lighter patches (pigment change)
  • Blisters or burns if settings are wrong
  • Rarely, scarring
09

Glossary of key words

Ablative
A laser that removes (vaporises) the top layer of skin. More downtime, stronger results.
Non-ablative
A laser that heats tissue under the surface without removing skin. Little or no downtime.
Chromophore
The “target” in skin that absorbs laser light — e.g. melanin, haemoglobin, water or ink.
Collagen
A protein that gives skin strength and firmness. Many lasers work by making the body produce more.
Dermis
The thick middle layer of skin with collagen, blood vessels, nerves and hair roots.
Epidermis
The thin outermost layer of skin that acts as a protective barrier.
Fitzpatrick scale
A scale from I (very fair, always burns) to VI (deeply pigmented, never burns) used to choose safe laser settings.
Fluence
How much energy is delivered to one area of skin, measured in joules per cm² (J/cm²).
Fractional laser
A laser that treats thousands of tiny dots/columns and leaves healthy skin in between, so healing is faster.
Melanin
The natural pigment that colours skin, hair and eyes.
Monochromatic
Light of a single wavelength (a single colour). Laser light is monochromatic.
Nanometre (nm)
One-billionth of a metre. Laser wavelengths are measured in nanometres.
Picosecond
One-trillionth of a second. Picosecond lasers fire extremely short pulses.
Pulse duration
How long each flash of laser light lasts.
Selective photothermolysis
The key principle: using the right wavelength, pulse length and energy to heat only the target.
Thermal relaxation time
The time a target takes to lose half its heat. Pulses shorter than this keep heat from spreading.
Wavelength
The “colour” of light, measured in nm. It decides what the laser targets and how deep it goes.
10

Test yourself

Six quick questions to check what you’ve learned.

1What does the “L” in LASER stand for?
2Which skin layer contains collagen, blood vessels and hair roots?
3The main target (chromophore) of a CO₂ laser is…
4Why is 1064 nm Nd:YAG often preferred for darker skin?
5What does a fractional laser do?
6Selective photothermolysis was described by…

Key takeaways

  • Dermatology is the medicine of skin, hair and nails.
  • Skin has three layers — most laser targets are in the dermis.
  • A laser is pure, single-wavelength, focused light.
  • Lasers work by heating only a chosen target (selective photothermolysis).
  • Wavelength, pulse duration and energy must all be right.
  • Skin type matters — safe settings protect darker skin.

This guide is for general education only and is not medical advice. Always consult a qualified dermatologist about your own skin.